Bari’s Motorbike Diary
Circumnavigating India by Motorbike, Sept-Nov 2005

Mandvi- Bhuj

deserted road, kutch
at Koteshwar, western most tip of India
pilgrimage traffic
Got up by 6 am and got rolling by 7:30 am. Just can’t seem to leave any sooner. It was cool when we left, although, it was already beginning to feel humid. The roads were very good and hardly any traffic. We were riding through the desert of Kutch ( see photo) which was very arid and dry. Hardly any people around and absolutely no tree shade to pull under when we stopped for a break.
Got to Koteshwar, the western most tip of India. (see photo). Nice moment. It was bloody hot and we couldn’t wait to get moving. at least then, the wind kept us slightly cool. 35km from there was Lakhpat, one of the most successful trading ports during the 17th century. Bhuj is another 100 km from there and we were getting hungry and tired from the heat. It was already 2 pm.
Navroze picked up a local guy who needed a ride to the next town and offered to show us a place to eat. He asked Navroze what we were doing and when he got the low down, mentioned to him that either we had to be rich or really mad.
Another interesting anecdote that has occurred a couple of times. when we park, some onlookers would ask us how much the imported bikes were. When we quoted them a price, they would tell us how foolish we were. For the price of one bike, we could have gotten an air conditioned car and all 3 of us could have gone comfortably on it.
The road conditions today were good for most of the day. good roads and easy traffic. Then we had the last 100 km to Bhuj which we all ranked as the most trying and difficult ride so far. There was a pilgrimage procession along the road heading to a temple that was 100km long. (see photo).It was longer, we just stopped off at Bhuj, our night halt. That absolutely exhausted us all. The heat, the lorries driving completely in our direction to avoid the pedestrians. A lot of the pilgrims have been walking for days, for as much as 400 km , some barefoot, some blind folded holding on to others. They were all very joyful shouting out praises to the goddess.
It was just very strange starting out the day cool and on deserted roads with hardly any people around. Then we end the day hot and dusty and people for hundreds of kms.
Glad to have reached our hotel Lake View in Bhuj. we all feel exhausted but in good spirits.
Tomorrow, we head to Kharagoda, where we have another day’s rest. So looking forward to it.
Thanks again to all for checking the blog and posting your comments.

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10 Responses to “Mandvi- Bhuj”

  1. Dan & Nicole
    October 4th, 2005 12:56

    Hey Bari - I just found out about this site today - what an amazing journey. It sounds like it’s going really well. We’ll be reading it daily, and looking forward to seeing you & hearing more when you return. Take care and be safe.

    Dan & Nicole

  2. hari kiran
    October 4th, 2005 22:34

    bari, i guess ur in that part of the country where they look at value for money (gujarat)and in rajasthan u may get more curious looks and “kya pagalpan hai” statements. But sure u have made it to their folklore u guys will be talked about for a long time.


  3. Alexis
    October 5th, 2005 05:18

    Hey, Bari
    Did thay say, “Mad or what?”
    That level of honesty is refreshing, isn’t it? It gives you carte blance to ask whatever probing questions you have about the pilgrimmage etc. Did you see any of the Rabari tribes or the Meghwar homes? You are in an amazing place right now. Hope you are not too exhausted to take it in.

  4. TRUE
    October 6th, 2005 19:19

    Wow! Cool! Neat! Tight!
    Hip, trip to the roots.
    Big Wheels keep on turning.
    Peace and sweet vibrations. True

  5. kirk and beate
    October 8th, 2005 10:13

    Hey Bari,

    I’m just amazed at the people who you meet, how gracious and friendly. I just am thinking what it must be like for all of the pilgrims. That takes passion and commitment on huge scale. Keep going and enjoying. Peace-
    FYI Silverlake misses ya

  6. Siddu
    October 8th, 2005 11:24

    Hi Daddy!
    I miss you! I hope you’re okay. I’m at San Francisco right now. I saw the Blue Jets yesterday. I love you. Bye. Siddu

  7. Jay & Michel (Sam's Sister)
    October 8th, 2005 12:43

    Hey Everyone - Bari is fine. Sam spoke with him and he felt the earthquake, but isn’t far enough north to be affected by it. I think she said he was in the state of Rajasthan.

  8. pooper
    October 8th, 2005 15:55

    The earthquake may have unearthed some buried gold or diamonds…maybe the Treasure of the Sierra Madre is to come via the next entry.


    bby rre

  9. Rahul
    October 8th, 2005 19:48


    Looking forward to multiple posts (4 days worth) when you get to the next internet connect zone. Poker night must seem far, far away… we missed you.

  10. Jason
    October 8th, 2005 23:21

    Glad to hear that you and your crew are OK, Brother. Good thoughts to those who weren’t so lucky. Peace.

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