Bari’s Motorbike Diary
Circumnavigating India by Motorbike, Sept-Nov 2005


parking in Darbanga
traditional Bihar lunch
van pool
are we there yet?
Thursday, October 27
Today is my brother Gautam’s birthday. Happy Birthday!
We couldn’t leave by the crack of dawn as I had hoped. Instead by 7 am we got started. We kept asking for directions out of town to the next town called Madhepur. Following a bunch of directions, we ended up 17 km at a gas station in the wrong direction. Instead of going east, we were headed South. They suggested we continue further south and catch the national highway where the road is better than the one we were supposed to be on. so we added an extra 100 km to our already long route for the day. When we reached the NH 3, the road seemed promising and we felt that perhaps it was for the best as we could cover more ground on better road. Stopped off for a traditional bihari lunch (see photo) at a roadside dhaba.
No sooner than a hundred km or so, the roads of Bihar proved to be the most difficult, we have ever been on. Even in the himalayas, at it worst we covered 20 km in an hour. Here we did 18 km in an hour. The roads were absolutely unforgiving. If we found a 4 inch piece of tarmac on the edge of the road, we would be on it. Our asses were thrashed over and over again.
We sat down(or stood up, rather) for a chai at around 4pm and decided to see how much further we could continue. We still were 150 km away from our destination, Siliguri, West Bengal. Within afew km we realised that that it was impossible to carry on and opted to call it a day at the next nearby town called Purnia.
We were covered head to toe in the dust and by far, our bodies had taken the worst beating. checked in to a hotel Harsha which was the home to even more bugs than the last 2 places. We had to keep the lights off, so the bugs wouldn’t come through the cracks of the bedroom windows. It was quite a yucky night!

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3 Responses to “Darbanga-Purnia”

  1. Praveen
    December 5th, 2005 14:19

    lol .. glad to see my apprehensions about this state weren’t entirely misplaced !
    I did all I could to avoid riding through this state last to last month. I was willing to cross countries even, to get around it.
    So I switched tracks from India (Gorakhpur) to Nepal (Butwal) and then onwards, till I exited close to Darjeeling. While coming back I took the airways, while the bikes came by train.
    In a nutshell - Avoid the State of Bihar like plague !
    But then you guys were on another trip altogather ! and helmets off to you for that !
    I’m pretty much awed by this ride you guy’s had done. Bari,Dinesh and Navroze.. I stand impressed. Hope to meet you on the road sometime !

    - Praveen

  2. Praveen
    December 5th, 2005 15:15

    Went through a few more pages of y’r travelouge. Just realized I was on the road during the same period. Delhi to Northeast only though.
    6th Oct - 25th Oct.

    - Praveen

  3. Pankaj
    February 23rd, 2006 02:08

    Hi bari Kumar,
    Its wonderful to see ur blog. I was searching for some thing related to purnia and found ur blog. excellent piece of work.
    Being native of Purnia, read the blog carefully. So nostalgic to read about Hotel Harsha (supposedly the best hotel in purnia)… and the bugs…

    I enjoyed ur blog. Thanks a lot. Just a correction in the blog, I am not sure if you caught “NH-3″ to come to purnia. It shouold be “NH-31″. In case you want to know more about Purnia(which I think u will not), please visit the site.


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