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<channel>
	<title>Bari's Motorbike Diary</title>
	<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india</link>
	<description>Circumnavigating India by Motorbike, Sept–Nov 2005</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2005 14:41:18 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=1.5.2</generator>
	<language>en</language>

		<item>
		<title>Hassan-Bangalore</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/hassan-bangalore</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/hassan-bangalore#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2005 14:41:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/hassan-bangalore</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	


	


Sunday, November 20
There was a lot of excitement as i woke up and got ready this morning by 6 am. Pretty much everyone was up and were almost ready as well. Finally! We got down and promptly by 6:30 am Navroze rolled off. We were only a few minutes behind but we had to stop [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0088.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0088.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0088-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="early morning start" title="early morning start" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4323.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4323.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4323-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="super bikers joint" title="super bikers joint" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4325.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4325.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4325-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="last p stop" title="last p stop" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0104.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0104.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0104-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="heading to Bangalore" title="heading to Bangalore" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4330.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4330.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4330-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="back in one piece" title="back in one piece" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4332.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4332.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4332-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="stable to the end" title="stable to the end" /></a><br />
Sunday, November 20<br />
There was a lot of excitement as i woke up and got ready this morning by 6 am. Pretty much everyone was up and were almost ready as well. Finally! We got down and promptly by 6:30 am Navroze rolled off. We were only a few minutes behind but we had to stop at the gas station to tank up.<br />
The air was quite cold and i wasn&#8217;t prepared for it. I figured the sun would warm me up soon enough. Dinesh and Dinesh took off like bats out of hell and i was cruising comfortably at around 100 kmph.<br />
Soon, I pulled over to wait for the jeeps to catch up as i wanted to put on another jacket to keep out the cold air. Joe pulled up in a couple of minutes and frantically said that we needed to get going right away, because Navroze had an accident ahead. I didn&#8217;t know the severity of the damage but it sure didn&#8217;t feel good. Not on this final leg of the journey.<br />
Just 25 kms from Hassan , we saw Navroze off to the right side of the road witha crowd of locals gathered around him. There was initial relief to see him walking around, even though he seemed to be limping. We all pulled up and got to find out what had happened. There was a auto (3 wheeler) cargo which made an unexpected right turn and Navroze was hit on his left side and he lost control and crashed. joe got the bike started and Naveen took care of the situation verbally with the auto driver. We decided to get out of that area and then would assess the damage. The bike was dented and damaged only superficially. Navroze had suffered road rash on his left leg, but no major injuries. He&#8217;s one tough Parsi!!! We got some medicine on his wound and got going again.<br />
60 km from there we stopped off for coffee at Cafe Cancoffee. There we were met with a bunch of Dinesh&#8217;s biker buddies. Had a quick coffee and we all set out towards Bangalore which was just over 100 kms. The super bikes took off fast and we three cruised along behind at a moderate speed. We reached the cafe Road Trip in to Bangalore by<br />
11 am. We were greeted by family and friends with open arms and garlands. Very touching moment for us all.<br />
We had finally completed our journey. 16,000+ kms and 22 states later we were where we started, back in one piece. We had been so fortunate with the weather that favored us for the 8 weeks on the road. The falls we all had were miraculously safe and for that we are very thankful.<br />
We had breakfast there sharing our experiences with everyone. From there we all went different ways. Navroze, Dinesh, Naveen, Joe to their respective families. Ameet to his friends, Rakesh came with me to my brother&#8217;s house. He was taking a bus later that night to Kerala to attend his brother&#8217;s wedding.<br />
We all called on each other later that day missing each other and feeling slightly strange being in the comforts of our homes. I had made plans to go to Hyderabad the next day to visit my parents.<br />
We are meeting up again in Bangalore on Thursday, 24th for a press meet and  a party with our friends and family.<br />
My personal gratitude to Dinesh and Navroze for including me in this journey of a life time. I have learnt so much from them both and hopefully i am a better rider at the end of the day. Thanks Joe for all your technical expertise, without which i would felt helpless. Thanks Naveen for your company and assistance in making us all be comfortable.Your humor will always put a smile on my face. Thanks Ameet for photographing us through the beauty and the dirt. You went through the 8 weeks with utter patience and worked very hard to share our adventure with everyone on the web site. Thanks to Rakesh for taking such a beating getting the shots. Even though you stayed invisible behind the camera, you were always in our sight. Thanks to Sanjiv for joining us for as long as he could. Your expertise in film and help in navigating the course everyday was a generous bonus to the ride. Good luck in editing this 50+hours of footage. I can&#8217;t wait to see it finished. Thanks Ramesh for assisting us with so many chores, which otherwise would have burdened us that much more.<br />
Without the unconditional support of our families and dear friends all over the world, we could not have ventured on this journey.<br />
I am extremely proud and humbled by the sheer beauty of this country and its people.<br />
I shall post more in the coming few days of the follow up to this ride.<br />
CHEERS!!!!!</p>
	<p><!-- technorati tags start --><br />
<p style="text-align:right;font-size:10px;">Technorati Tags: <a href="http://www.technorati.com/tag/India Bike Trip" rel="tag">India Bike Trip</a></p>
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Kannur-Hassan</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kannur-hassan</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kannur-hassan#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2005 14:33:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kannur-hassan</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	


	
	
Saturday, November 19
I didn&#8217;t even turn on my alarm this morning. I figured everyone is going to be slow in waking up and rolling. By 8 am we went to have breakfast which lasted a while. Today our distance to cover was another 300 kms and we were going to stop for the night in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0087-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0087-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0087-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="under the green flutter" title="under the green flutter" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0101.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0101.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0101-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="banyan shade" title="banyan shade" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0107.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0107.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0107-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="entering karnataka state" title="entering karnataka state" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0111-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0111-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0111-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="back at Mangalore" title="back at Mangalore" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4320.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4320.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4320-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="sunset over the western ghats" title="sunset over the western ghats" /></a><br />
Saturday, November 19<br />
I didn&#8217;t even turn on my alarm this morning. I figured everyone is going to be slow in waking up and rolling. By 8 am we went to have breakfast which lasted a while. Today our distance to cover was another 300 kms and we were going to stop for the night in Hassan, which is only 180 km away from Bangalore. We opted not to ride all the way to Bangalore in the dark and reach there quite late in the night. So arrangements were made for us to saty the night in Hassan and roll early the next day to Bangalore.<br />
After our thank you and farewells to our friends in Kannur, we headed towards Mangalore which was about 150 kms north of Kannur. The road conditions were very similar to those of the previous couple of days. We stopped often to film and to take breaks. Soon we crossed in to the Karnataka state border and not far after that we got to Mangalore around 1:30pm. (see photo)At that point we had unofficially completed our circum-navigation of the country. On September 25 when we started out from Bangalore, we set out west to mangalore and from this point we headed north along the coast. Now we completed the parikrama by reaching that circle from the south. It was a very thrilling moment for all of us and we stopped to congratulate each other and take some pictures.<br />
Some local reporter saw us and enquired about our journey and soon got his cameraman to come and did a impromtu interview for the local television.<br />
The sun was very intense here. Staying in that open area with no shade was making me feel quite tired and uncomfortable. Soon we retraced our path from there going East towards Hassan which was another 150 kms away.<br />
We were concerned about the condition of the roads in the western ghat section. It was already beat up in many areas  2 months prior. Since then there were severe rain storms and we were expecting a lot worse. Fortunately the roads were no worse than before and after what we had been through in other parts of the country, it didn&#8217;t phase us much. We saw the final sunset over the western ghats as we got to Sakhileshpur. As we were gaining altitude to 3000feet, the air was much cooler and was quite nippy.<br />
We reached Hassan around 7pm, and were greeted with garlands at the hotel by another biker buddy of Dinesh, whose name was also Dinesh. He had come there on his KTM 950 motorcycle. It was quite a big bike and made our kawasaki bikes look like toys.<br />
I wasn&#8217;t feeling so good in my stomach. Didn&#8217;t know if it was indigestion or tiredness or just an anti climatic feeling of having completed the circum-navigation. Either way, i opted to skip the drinks and dinner and settled for some fruit salad with ice cream and got to bed by 10:30 pm.<br />
Navroze was very keen on starting off by no later than 6:30 am the next day and all of us felt we could do it as well.</p>
	<p><!-- technorati tags start --><br />
<p style="text-align:right;font-size:10px;">Technorati Tags: <a href="http://www.technorati.com/tag/India Bike Trip" rel="tag">India Bike Trip</a></p>
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]]></content:encoded>
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Ernakulam-Kannur</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/ernakulam-kannur</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/ernakulam-kannur#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 23 Nov 2005 12:35:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/ernakulam-kannur</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	


	
	Friday, November 18
No rush to wake up this morning. We were up and ready by 7 am and decided to go upstairs for a quick breakfast. The place was empty but a simple order for 4 people took over an hour. Went down after that to warm up the bikes. I was having a problem [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4287.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4287.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4287-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="kerala back waters" title="kerala back waters" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4289.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4289.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4289-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="brush aside" title="brush aside" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4291.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4291.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4291-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="god's own country" title="god's own country" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0070.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0070.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0070-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="Bari, L.R.Rajesh, Dinesh, Vasant Pai, Cariappa" title="Bari, L.R.Rajesh, Dinesh, Vasant Pai, Cariappa" /></a></p>
	<p>Friday, November 18<br />
No rush to wake up this morning. We were up and ready by 7 am and decided to go upstairs for a quick breakfast. The place was empty but a simple order for 4 people took over an hour. Went down after that to warm up the bikes. I was having a problem with the idle on the bike, as it would keep stalling. Joe took a look at it and figured some curious on lookers had been fidgeting with it the night before.<br />
Today&#8217;s ride was further up the Kerala coast to a place called Kannur or Kannanore, about 300 kms away. We had decided to stop in Calicut  for lunch which was about 200 kms away. The roads were alright and the traffic slightly crazy and aggressive. No more than the way we were riding and driving, i guess. But it did mean that we had to be very attentive as a lot of vehicles would drive helter skelter.<br />
The weather was warm and a little sultery. The backwaters were gorgeous with coconut trees abundant as far as the eye can see. Coconut products are used widely here for everything  particularly as cooking oil, which takes a little getting used to.<br />
A friend of ours from Rishi Valley school, Vasant Pai lives in Kannur and he was taking care of the arrangements for us there. He along with another alumni, L.R.Rajesh met us in Calicut for lunch. It was quite strange geting in to Calicut. Dinesh had already gone ahead and met up with them and had gone to the restaurant. Navroze was a few kms behind me when i reached the town. I didn&#8217;t know this town and I wasn&#8217;t aware of the location for lunch. As i  pulled over to make a call, a local chap came by on his bike and said that my friends went that way. I wasn&#8217;t sure who he was talking   about and he clarified that he saw similar bikes going in that particular direction. That led me to the beach road where we met for lunch at hotel Sea Queen.<br />
After a long lunch break, Vasant who rides a Yamaha TDM 950 bike led the way to Kannur. Getting out of Calicut, the stench of the fish was quite nasty and soon we passed through a small town called Mahe, which is part of Pondicherry. By 6:30 pm we reached Kannur where we had a refreshing black tea with lemon and followed Vasant to Kairali resort which was on the banks of the backwaters. It was a very spacious resort and the rooms were very clean and comfortable. soon, we were joined by another classmate of mine from Rishi Valley, Cariappa. I hadn&#8217;t seen him for over 20 years and it was absolutely delightful catching up with him.<br />
This was something very special about this ride for me. Besides experiencing the diverse states for their rich splendor, the opportunity to see old friends in different parts of the country was something very dear.<br />
After a relaxing round of drinks and a traditional kerala buffet meal by the pool, we got to our rooms around midnight or a little after.</p>
	<p><!-- technorati tags start --><br />
<p style="text-align:right;font-size:10px;">Technorati Tags: <a href="http://www.technorati.com/tag/india bike trip" rel="tag">india bike trip</a></p>
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Kanyakumari-Ernakulam</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kanyakumari-ernakulam</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kanyakumari-ernakulam#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2005 14:39:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kanyakumari-ernakulam</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	





Thursday, November 17
It was lovely waking up at 6:30 am to the sounds of the waves lapping on the shores and the sun rising outside my window. (see photo).The fishermen were setting out to the sea in their boats and the sermons from a local church was blaring through the loud speakers in Tamil.
We were [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4248.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4248.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4248-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="sunrise from my room" title="sunrise from my room" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0118.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0118.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0118-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="at the southern tip of India" title="at the southern tip of India" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0147.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0147.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0147-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="leaving kanyakumari" title="leaving kanyakumari" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4269.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4269.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4269-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="kerala breakfast" title="kerala breakfast" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4276.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4276.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4276-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="highway break, kerala" title="highway break, kerala" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0156-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0156-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0156-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="kerala sea food" title="kerala sea food" /></a><br />
Thursday, November 17<br />
It was lovely waking up at 6:30 am to the sounds of the waves lapping on the shores and the sun rising outside my window. (see photo).The fishermen were setting out to the sea in their boats and the sermons from a local church was blaring through the loud speakers in Tamil.<br />
We were at the southern most tip of India where the Bay of Bengal and the Indian ocean join. We managed to get down by 8 am and took a couple of pics. by the edge with our bikes. (see photo)<br />
Felt much lighter this morning. somehow felt that the hard parts were behind us and we set off to Ernaculam which was about 350 km away. Joe had organised a traditional kerala breakfast (see photo) of Idiappam with mutton stew and poories with potato curry in Trivandrum. So we got going, leaving the evergreen Kanyakumari for even more greener pastures of Kerala. The Kerala state border was about 80 km away and Trivandrum was only 20 km from there. We comfortably reached the Trivandrum tennis club by 10 am for breakfast. Joe&#8217;s friend Dilip had organised everything and it was a very yummy breakfast. Eager Joe had also arranged for lunch in Allipi which was only another 200 km away.<br />
The road there was fine but the traffic was fairly aggressive on that  2 lane highway. It felt like Kerala was one big town, with no breaks in between. We reached Allipi by around 4 pm and were led to a toddy shack about 10 km away from the main highway. Toddy is the local drink which is the sap from the coconuts in the mornings and in the evenings in clay pots. If left out in the sun, it ferments and the alcohol content goes up. I had wanted to try the fresh kind. The food was all kinds of seafood (see photo) which to my dismay was way too spicy. So i barely had much. besides, i was still quite full from breakfast.<br />
I was just eager to get to Cochin which was still 60 kms away, before dark. I have been to Cochin before many times and have stayed in the fort Cochin area which is quite quaint and interesting. We were staying the night instead in Ernaculam which is about 10 km from Cochin. The sun set as we got going and the highway opened up in to a 4 lane highway. But there was so much smoke and pollution that the visibility was very poor with the headlights. Was relieved to reach our accomodations that were set up in some service apartments by 7 pm. They were clean rooms and bathrooms with hot water and that was fine with us. The food service was pathetically slow and was frustrating.<br />
Got to sleep by midnight.
</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Nagapattanam-Kanyakumari</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/nagapattanam-kanyakumari</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/nagapattanam-kanyakumari#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2005 13:09:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/nagapattanam-kanyakumari</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	






Wednesday, November 16
Today is going to be another monster ride. Firstly we have to make up the distance, we didn&#8217;t cover yesterday. So we headed out by 6:30 am down further south all along the coast. Navroze and I left a little earlier with Joe and Rakesh following in the jeep. Dinesh was going to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4230.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4230.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4230-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="church, Velankanni, T.N," title="church, Velankanni, T.N," /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4231.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4231.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4231-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="hair removal sign, Velankanni" title="hair removal sign, Velankanni" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4234.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4234.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4234-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="duck crossing" title="duck crossing" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4240.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4240.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4240-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="riding along the coast" title="riding along the coast" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4241.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4241.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4241-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="gone are the roads" title="gone are the roads" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0091-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0091-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0091-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="where are we?" title="where are we?" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4245.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4245.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4245-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="sunset, Tamil Nadu" title="sunset, Tamil Nadu" /></a><br />
Wednesday, November 16<br />
Today is going to be another monster ride. Firstly we have to make up the distance, we didn&#8217;t cover yesterday. So we headed out by 6:30 am down further south all along the coast. Navroze and I left a little earlier with Joe and Rakesh following in the jeep. Dinesh was going to catch up soon with Naveen and Ameet in the other jeep.<br />
About 15 km from Nagapattanam was a small town called Valankanni, where there is a very famous church. Based on a vision of the mother Mary to a local kid, this chapel was founded in the 15th century. It was later expanded to what it is today. (see photo). We spent a little time there and continued south. The roads got progressively worse and there were no signs in english anymore. So communication became quite difficult. Even though some in the crew could converse in the local language, Tamil, the information was in complete contradiction to each other. We figured to trust the info from the bus drivers.<br />
We went through many little villages where the roads were non existent and felt like south indian version of our experience in Bihar. The weather was hot and humid. We were riding a couple hundred yards from the bay of Bengal and going through some of the villages, the stench of the dried fish was quite unbearable. We stopped for a dosa lunch in a small town and carried on. By about 1 pm we found a shahed spot and took a break there. Tried to get a quick shut eye, and soon Dinesh and the others caught up with us. As they had not yet eaten, we opted to proceed to Ramnathpuram to eat. We got there by 3 pm. Finally, It had taken us 7 hours to reach Ramnathpuram which was about 220 km from the start. The distances shown on the maps were based on the main highways and not the coastal routes that we were traversing on. By the time we had a bite to eat and tanked up, it was already 4pm. We still had over 300 km left to go.<br />
From there we decided to head a few km inland and cover the rest of the distance to Kanyakumari by the national highway. The roads were much more forgiving and we started to cover more ground faster. Along the way, a car pulled up next to us and the passengers recognised Dinesh from their past connection. hey were headed towards a  town called Thirunelvelli, which was on our way. So they led the way for us.<br />
Soon the sun set, and as it got darker, we had to slow down our speeds. I was very clear to everyone that if i was tired, i would be pulling over to rest and not make the same mistake as in Orissa.<br />
The roads being good, were were going at speeds ranging from 70 -80 kmph and managed to reach Kanyakumari just a little after 11 pm. we had ridden for almost 17 hours and covered 525 kms.<br />
It was very thrilling for me to have reached the southern most point of India. We had just covered the entire east coast and it was a very hard ride. </p>
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<p style="text-align:right;font-size:10px;">Technorati Tags: <a href="http://www.technorati.com/tag/India Bike Trip" rel="tag">India Bike Trip</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Chennai-Nagapattanam</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/chennai-nagapattanam</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/chennai-nagapattanam#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Nov 2005 09:31:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/chennai-nagapattanam</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	



Tuesday, November 15
Woke up by 6 am and saw a telugu newspaper under my door. Surprised to see inside a photo of me with my folks from the previous day in Nellore. Got ready and was down by the bike by 7 am. Hardly a surprise, no one else was there. Was wishing i had [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4200.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4200.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4200-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="on ECR" title="on ECR" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4205.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4205.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4205-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="over heating super bike" title="over heating super bike" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4211.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4211.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4211-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="lunch in Pondicherry" title="lunch in Pondicherry" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4226.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4226.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4226-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="on the wrong road" title="on the wrong road" /></a><br />
Tuesday, November 15<br />
Woke up by 6 am and saw a telugu newspaper under my door. Surprised to see inside a photo of me with my folks from the previous day in Nellore. Got ready and was down by the bike by 7 am. Hardly a surprise, no one else was there. Was wishing i had slept longer. It didn&#8217;t feel good to start the day feeling tired, as the body was getting more and more fatigued everyday. Soon Dinesh came down and slowly the others. We had planned on meeting with Navroze on the way out of town.<br />
Our ride todaty was to have been from Chennai to Ramnathpuram, which we had figured to be around 400 km. We knew the road to Pondicherry (150 km ) was very good but were concerned about the road after that as that region was hit with some very heavy rains the past few weeks.<br />
From Chennai onwards, Bhaskar (a riding buddy of Dinesh, from Bangalore) was going to join us in the ride. He had a very nice Honda CBR 1100 super bike. Barely 45km from our start, Bhaskar&#8217;s bike began to over heat. We pulled over and Joe opened it up and found that the coolant was leaking and it wouldn&#8217;t hold up. So after over an hour by the roadside, Bhaskar took the decision to abort his ride and get a van to come and pick up his bike to take back to Bangalore. Bummer, he had been planning this for a long time and was looking forward to doing this with us. Sorry man!<br />
We had now decided to make it to Nagapattanam instead of Ramnathpuram for the night. We were still 100 km from Pondicherry and from there it was another 180 km to Nagapattanam. We figured on having an earlier start the next day to make up for the extra distance.<br />
The road to Pondicherry was very good and the weather was was not as hot and muggy as it usually is in that area. We had intended to have breakfast in Pondi, instead we got there for lunch. I was familiar with the town as I go there every time  I&#8217;m in India. So I led them to a restaurant called Satsanga, which served French and Italian cuisine. For those not familiar, Pondicherry was part of the French colony till the 60&#8217;s. There are lots of Europeans and Americans visiting  that city for the Auroville ashram.I go there to buy old furniture.<br />
Lunch was very gratifying and we headed further south along the coast. This entire area was hit very hard by the tsunami last year. So, as we were riding through, we could see the camp sites for the evacuated fishermen. The road was unexpectedly good for the next 100 km or so. Navroze and I ended up on a different road from the others as there were quite a few deviations in the towns. Over the phone we figured out that we were going off by another 25 km which didn&#8217;t seem so bad on that very picturesque road. So we opted to carry on and meet up in Nagapattanam. from there the road was winding through even smaller villages and the roads were also quite beat up in many areas due to the rains. One of the main bridges had collapsed in a town we needed to pass through and there was another 20 km diversion through rice fields and in the darkness of the night, we were wondering where the hell we were heading as we couldn&#8217;t see any lights anywhere. Finally we reached the hotel in Nagapattinam by 8 pm. Rahesh, Ameet and I decided to have an early dinner and catch up on sleep. I was so exhausted that i fell asleep by 10:30 pm without even getting out of riding clothes.<br />
<!-- technorati tags start --><br />
<p style="text-align:right;font-size:10px;">Technorati Tags: <a href="http://www.technorati.com/tag/India Bike Trip" rel="tag">India Bike Trip</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Guntur-Chennai</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/guntur-chennai</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/guntur-chennai#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Nov 2005 15:08:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/guntur-chennai</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	





Monday, November 14
Today was a very special day for me. Navroze and I were very eager to get started early. We got rolling by 6 am.Navroze had to get to Chennai as early as possible to meet up with a friend of his there. I had wanted to stop on the way in a town [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4180.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4180.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4180-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="dosa breakfast" title="dosa breakfast" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0331.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0331.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0331-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="super fine highway" title="super fine highway" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0345.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0345.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0345-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="with my parents and aunt sarojini" title="with my parents and aunt sarojini" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0362.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0362.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0362-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="talking to local media" title="talking to local media" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0376.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0376.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0376-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="Dinesh and I leaving Vakadu" title="Dinesh and I leaving Vakadu" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0380.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0380.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0380-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="andhra sunset" title="andhra sunset" /></a><br />
Monday, November 14<br />
Today was a very special day for me. Navroze and I were very eager to get started early. We got rolling by 6 am.Navroze had to get to Chennai as early as possible to meet up with a friend of his there. I had wanted to stop on the way in a town called Nellore (where i was born) to visit a very dear aunt Sarojini. She is my father&#8217;s sister and has been very close to me all my life. She has not been in good health and I was very keen on stopping by to see her.<br />
 On the way there we stopped at a small restaurant outside a town called Ongole and had a dosa for breakfast. No more parathas, thank you!  The roads were fantastic and we were covering the distance fairly quickly. By 11am or so we reached Nellore from where I went in to town along with my brother Gautam.. Navroze carried on to chennai by himself. Dinesh was still behind. I went by to see my aunt and within 15 minutes or so, my parents dropped by. They live in Hyderabad and happened to have some political work to attend in that surrounding area and opted to surprise me there for a  few minutes. It was lovely to see them and there was a lot of press as well. Just spoke to them briefly about our adventure so far and headed to my village Vakadu for lunch.<br />
This was the first time in my life that i was going to my village on my own. I have been before by car or bus but never like this.Caught up with Dinesh and my brother Ram and friends on the highway and proceeded to the village. We got to Vakadu which is about 20 km towards the ocean from the highway, by about 1 pm. There was an elaborate lunch spread. I took Rakesh around a few areas of the village where i had spent my childhood. There were a bunch of kids celebrating children&#8217;s day by participating in sports events and other talent programs. Their teachers recognised me and came over to talk to me. Soon, all these kids swarmed around me asking for my autograph. It was extremely bizzare and surreal as some kids didn&#8217;t even have a pice of paper and they asked me to sign their palms. They asked me sit amongst them and watch the program. It was very touching and soon i had to say bye to them to go have lunch.<br />
Had a quick shut eye after lunch and got going by 4 pm towards Chennai which is slightly over 100 km. As we were leaving the Andhra state line, the sun was setting behind the palm trees that lined  the road. By the time we reached Chennai, it was 6 pm and was already dark. The traffic into town was quite hectic. It took us an hour and half to reach our accomodation at Andhra club.<br />
There we were met with many of our friends from our early school years. I saw some friends that i hadn&#8217;t seen for about 24 years. Lot of reminiscing and laughter over drinks and dinner on the roof. We showed them some of the pictures Ameet had taken so far of our ride and got to bed around midnight. Another late night and short on sleep.<br />
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		<item>
		<title>Visakhapatnam-Guntur</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/visakhapatnam-guntur</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/visakhapatnam-guntur#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 21 Nov 2005 12:46:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/visakhapatnam-guntur</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	

	

Sunday, November 13
Having a rest day doesn&#8217;t mean we are rested for the next day. Usually it&#8217;s one party too many and too late, especially when there are a lot of friends and family around.
We had hearty breakfast of more than one choice. It was pretty much everything south indian: idly,vada, dosa,uthapam and good strong [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4142.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4142.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4142-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="view of bay of bengal" title="view of bay of bengal" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4162.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4162.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4162-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="on NH 5" title="on NH 5" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0257.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0257.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0257-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="awesome south indian chai " title="awesome south indian chai " /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0282.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0282.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0282-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="what a bull!" title="what a bull!" /></a><br />
Sunday, November 13<br />
Having a rest day doesn&#8217;t mean we are rested for the next day. Usually it&#8217;s one party too many and too late, especially when there are a lot of friends and family around.<br />
We had hearty breakfast of more than one choice. It was pretty much everything south indian: idly,vada, dosa,uthapam and good strong coffee. By the time we had breakfast I was ready for a nap. My elder brother Ram and a few friends were leading the way out of town in a car. They were joinng us for the next 2 days. more partying!<br />
The road out of Vizag was super.. 4 lane highway with a divider separating on coming traffic. After the ass whipping we received the previous few days, this was a runway. I was comfortably cruising between 100-120 kmph.<br />
We stopped after about 2 hours for a cup of coffee. But the local shop did not have any, only tea instead. Interestingly, the chai guy was reading the local paper and our photo was in it with a write up. He recognised us and was quite thrilled. The chai was good and we carried on very comfortably. Navroze and I stopped off at another town to take some photos. With in 5 minutes there were quite a few onlookers around us who also recognised us from the paper. it was quite trippy hearing them call us by our names. What amazed me more was that they all read the paper and were quite informed.<br />
Stopped in a town called Tanuku for lunch. An old friend of ours G.V.Ramana&#8217;s brother in law hosted  us to a terrific lunch. By the time we got there I felt quite exhausted. I didn&#8217;t know if it was because of fatigue setting in or if it was the light in Andhra. The sun was very bright and squinting while riding does tire the eyes. I took a quick shut eye before lunch and we were taken around the compound of the house where he had various birds and animals. One of the most outstanding animal there was this bull (see photo) which stood over 6 feet tall and was just picture perfect. Amazingly beautiful. We were very apprehensive about going any closer to take the picture.<br />
From there we headed to Guntur which was another 150 km or so further. we reached the town just as it got dark.The road was fabulous from start to finish with hardly a pot hole. All signs were clearly marked in English, Telugu and in Hindi languages. We were put up in a private guest house which was very comfortable. My younger brother had driven down from Hyderabad to meet us there. He was going o join us in the car till the next day to Chennai.<br />
Navroze and I had decided to have an early start and Dinesh would catch up with us later, as he would be riding much faster. So we got to bed earlier than the others at midnight.<br />
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		<item>
		<title>Bhuvaneshwar-Visakhapatnam</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/bhuvaneshwar-visakhapatnam</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/bhuvaneshwar-visakhapatnam#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Nov 2005 18:07:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/bhuvaneshwar-visakhapatnam</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	

	

	

	
Friday, November 11
Another early rise. Would have loved to sleep for a couple more hours. Today it&#8217;s another 420 km to Our destination. THe highway promises to be good. Could feel the soreness from the fall in my hip and in my neck. Got a better view of the damage to the bike (see photo). [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4073.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4073.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4073-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="damage from night before" title="damage from night before" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4075.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4075.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4075-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="orissa landscape" title="orissa landscape" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0137.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0137.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0137-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="leaving Orissa" title="leaving Orissa" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4102.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4102.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4102-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="temple of earthly delights" title="temple of earthly delights" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4083.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4083.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4083-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="choo chho " title="choo chho " /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4121.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4121.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4121-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="traditional andhra meal" title="traditional andhra meal" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0156.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0156.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0156-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="hello andhra!" title="hello andhra!" /></a><br />
Friday, November 11<br />
Another early rise. Would have loved to sleep for a couple more hours. Today it&#8217;s another 420 km to Our destination. THe highway promises to be good. Could feel the soreness from the fall in my hip and in my neck. Got a better view of the damage to the bike (see photo). Had eggs and toast for breakfast at the hotel and got going. The roads were quite nice and the landscape was beautiful.<br />
We planned on getting to Andhra Pradesh state border which was about 200 km away and then break for lunch. Dinesh took off ahead of us and we planned on meeting for lunch up ahead. Meanwhile Navroze and i cruised on the open road at about 100 kmph and stopped for some refreshments.<br />
When we reached the border, there was an excitement in the air around us. The sense of familiarity with the language and people made the communication easy. We went ahead another 50 km and had a traditional andhra food on a banana leaf. We were all giddy with joy and the food was fantastic. The others at the dhaba must have thought we were nuts. Afterwards, Dinesh felt he wanted to get to Vizag (short for Visakhapatnam) as soon as possible and meet up with my brother Ram and a bunch of friends who were waiting to receive us and party. Navroze, Joe, Rakesh and I rested up for another 45 minutes and then got rolling to finish up the last 120 km or so left. The roads in A.P. were absolutely amazing. all the way from the border to the city.<br />
By 6 pm or so we reached and we were put up at a guest house a block from the beach. We got a glimse of the Bay of Bengal for the first time on the east coast. from here we follow it all the way down south to the tip of Kanyakumari. Before all that we had some partying to do. It was lovely to see so many friends who greeted us and later we shared with them our adventures over dinner and drinks on the beach a few kms away. Before we realised it was already pat 1 am and by the time we came back and got to bed, it was already 2 am.<br />
Tomorrow we are breaking in Vizag, so no worries.<br />
So good to be in Andhra! Good strong coffee from here on again. </p>
	<p>Saturday, November 11<br />
Good to just sleep in and not having any alarms going off. Woke up around 8:45 am  to the sun light coming in strong from the window. Strong coffee was followed by a few cups of the same and a feast of a breakfast was at the table. After having parathas and eggs for the past 45  days for breakfast, having dosa, vada and idly with sambar was delicious. Ram had organised a masseur to knead away the knots in our tired bodies. we had a lazy morning and then we went to a bar called Chrome for some cocktails and lunch. Very late lunch. by the time we came out, it was already past 4 pm. There was a press conference arranged with the local media at 5:30 pm . We spoke to them for an hour or less.<br />
Although i had not quite digested my lunch yet, We made  our way to dinner at my dad&#8217;s place. He is not here. It feels strange to  have been in India for 7 weeks already and i still have not seen my parents. I plan on seeing them in Hyderabad after we are finished with this ride. Feels like i have eaten more food in these 2 days than i have in past few weeks.<br />
Tomorrow, a local t.v. channel is coming by to talk to us before we get rolling by 8;30 am. very tired and sleepy now. (atleast i am not on the bike) Good night!<br />
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Behrampore-Bhuvaneshwar</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/behrampore-bhuvaneshwar</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/behrampore-bhuvaneshwar#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Nov 2005 16:45:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/behrampore-bhuvaneshwar</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	



	
Thursday, November 10
Yesterday was a rough day for Dinesh. He had a bout of food poisoning in the morning and was throwing up all day. So he got through the ride yesterday as soon as he could and was wiped out by the time we reached the hotel. We decided that Navroze and I would [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4064-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4064-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4064-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="what the....?" title="what the....?" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4065-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4065-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4065-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="chai shop, krishnanagar" title="chai shop, krishnanagar" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4067-2.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4067-2.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4067-2-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="crossing the hoogli river" title="crossing the hoogli river" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4069-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4069-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4069-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="fine highway" title="fine highway" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0129.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0129.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0129-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="never ending ride" title="never ending ride" /></a><br />
Thursday, November 10<br />
Yesterday was a rough day for Dinesh. He had a bout of food poisoning in the morning and was throwing up all day. So he got through the ride yesterday as soon as he could and was wiped out by the time we reached the hotel. We decided that Navroze and I would start off early with one of the jeeps and Dinesh would catch up to us when he felt more rested.<br />
Woke up to Naveen&#8217;s alarm at 4:45 am and got ready by 5:30. As always, Navroze and I finally rolled another half hour later. The roads were empty and it was a little chilly. Road out of town was as bad as the road in to town. Uneven and broken up in many places. The first 50 km or so was like that and then it got a little better. After that we stopped off for a chai and some breakfast in a small town called Krishnanagar (see photo). The chai is dispensed from the machine and is served in a disposable clay cup. Weird mix!<br />
By around noon we reached the suburbs of Calcutta. Passed over the hoogli river and the national highway 60 came up. what a relief! Fantastic 2 lane each way highway wih a divided in between and light traffic. We got open up the throttle for a while until we broke for lunch. Also we were back in area where we could get good yogurt and that meant i could indulge in Lassi, my favorite drink here.<br />
We had no idea how many more kms exactly to Bhuvaneshwar, but as long as the road was like a runway, we were flying with big grins. after almost 400 kms we saw signs saying we had another 300 or so more to our destination. The light was slowly dimming and Dinesh opted to carry on as fast (and safe) as he could to Bhuvaneshwar and we would meet up there.<br />
Meanwhile Navroze and I had already been on the road for about 12 hours and we stopped for a chai, then for a tire inspection for the backup jeep, then petrol and finally dinner break. by then it was around 9pm and it was colder than i had expected. we put on our rain gear just to keep the wind out and got back on the bikes to finish the last 180 km or so left. I felt awfully tired after dinner and was having a very difficult time focusing on the traffic ahead. The thoughts were racing through my mind to stop and take a quick shut eye or let Joe ride for awhile, because i knew i couldn&#8217;t go on like that. Perhaps if the remaining distance was very short, but we had a long ways to go and i was also thinking that it would slow down Navroze, if I were to stop so soon. As i was thinking these, i must have taken a wink too long and i crashed in to the central divider to my left and was thrown off the bike at about 50 kmph. I was flung on to the dirt median and rolled over a few times and miraculously escaped without a scratch. The bike skidded along the its side and crashed to a halt. I was shaken and was feeling idiotic for not going with my instinct right away. Very stupid of me! Joe and Rakesh were in the jeep right behind and they helped get the bike back up and it was working fine, except for the horn which was muffled. There were a couple of big scrapes on the bike&#8217;s side but it was working fine.<br />
I noticed that the rain pants i had on over my jeans were damaged at the my left shin area quite bad and also on my right hip. I must have fallen on my hip, as i could already feel a little soreness.<br />
I was awake now! With the intention that i would stop at any moment if i felt sleepy, I got back on the bike and carried on to finish the remaining 160 kms.<br />
We stopped briefly a couple of times for chai and to wash face and by 1:30 am we reached Bhuvaneshwar in Orissa state. What a ride. Over 19 hours and 675 kms was very taxing. I was very thankful for the incredible luck i had and was ready to say enough for the day.<br />
Took a hot shower at the hotel Bhuvaneshwar and hit the bed. Tomorrow we were heading to Visakhapatnam in Andhra Pradesh state, my home state.<br />
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		<item>
		<title>Siliguri-Behrampore</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/siliguri-behrampore</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/siliguri-behrampore#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Nov 2005 17:19:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/siliguri-behrampore</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	

	



Wednesday, November 9
My alarm went off by 5 am and i loked out the window and it was still dark. Got ready in half hour and it still was kind of dark. no one was ready to roll yet. Navroze made me a cup of his private coffee (which he brews every morrning. thank you [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4042.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4042.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4042-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="bye sanjeev" title="bye sanjeev" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0069-3.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0069-3.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0069-3-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="wrong way" title="wrong way" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4048.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4048.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4048-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="pray for good road" title="pray for good road" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4049.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4049.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4049-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="Ballal pur village, west bengal" title="Ballal pur village, west bengal" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4057.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4057.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4057-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="texas long horns " title="texas long horns " /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0085.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0085.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0085-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="bottoms up" title="bottoms up" /></a><br />
Wednesday, November 9<br />
My alarm went off by 5 am and i loked out the window and it was still dark. Got ready in half hour and it still was kind of dark. no one was ready to roll yet. Navroze made me a cup of his private coffee (which he brews every morrning. thank you Navroze!) Sanjeev was bidding us adieu as he was catching a flight out of Siliguri in the afternoon. We hope to see him again. By 6 am or a little past, we were rolling.<br />
The air was very cool and felt quite refreshing. The sun was rising to our left as we headed south. Warm light cast ling shadows to the right of us on the road. Riding past many more tea estates, the sun light looked very romantic seeping through the trees and he smoke from the villages was tinting the light in amber tones.<br />
The road was fine for about 25 km and then the potholes made their presence be known. Off and on the road was fine and the distressed road would slow us down quite a bit. The shadows from the trees on the road also disguised the potholes and even within 10 ft of us, it was difficult to identify the craters. We hit a few of them  quite hard and would hope that the bike was alright to go on.<br />
By 8 am, after 80 km, we stopped off at a dhaba for some breakfast of roti and a curry of soy and potatoes which was pretty good. But he scrambled egg made with mustard oil was not right for me. Just didn&#8217;t taste right. Passed on it.<br />
The road would alternate between looking like swiss cheese to a four lane super highway. On the good stretches we could easily cruise at about 120 kmph, but on the other crawl at abot 20 kmph.<br />
This went on all day for the 12 hours it took to reach Behrampore and we covered a little over 400 kms today. Tomorrow&#8217;s destination is Bhuvaneshwar in Orissa state. We realized that there was a small mistake when the original mileage was calculated. It&#8217;s actually close to 650 km and not around 400 km as we had initially planned for. Planning on waking up real early and see how much we can cover. Who knows what the road conditions are? We&#8217;ll know tomorrow. Till then, good night!<br />
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Coochbehar-Siliguri</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/coochbehar-siliguri</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/coochbehar-siliguri#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2005 13:12:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/coochbehar-siliguri</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	
	
	

	Tuesday, November 8
I was getting late getting to the bike in the morning as i was still uploading images. Didn&#8217;t know whether i would have any connection at the next halt. We started out by 8 am and headed towards Siliguri, West Bengal. The weather was just fine and the road was kind as well. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0054.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0054.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0054-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="in line twins leaving Coochbehar" title="in line twins leaving Coochbehar" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0059-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0059-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0059-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="view of Kanchen junga" title="view of Kanchen junga" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4040.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4040.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4040-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="in Siliguri" title="in Siliguri" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4041.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4041.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4041-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="hotel Jamini, Siliguri" title="hotel Jamini, Siliguri" /></a></p>
	<p>Tuesday, November 8<br />
I was getting late getting to the bike in the morning as i was still uploading images. Didn&#8217;t know whether i would have any connection at the next halt. We started out by 8 am and headed towards Siliguri, West Bengal. The weather was just fine and the road was kind as well. We took a slightly different route than the one we took from Gangtok to Coochbehar. This road was fine as well and we had a fantastic view of the Kanchen junga mountain range on our right. at around 29,000 ft, hat is the second highest mountain range in India after the Everest.<br />
Siliguri was only 140 km from our start and we had planned on servicing the jeeps there during a long lunch after which we would carry on towards Kishangunj or Raigunj, which were 70 - 150 km from Siliguri towards Calcutta. We had been told that the roads were quite bad and that it would take forever to get through. Sound like Bihar roads. In fact, we were to get on this road from bihar, which we avoided due to bad roads. Now we have no choice.<br />
We received word that there was no decent accomodation in those 2 tiny towns and it would be another carnival scenario around the bikes and us, if we ended up there in the dark. The reports on the roads were quite conflicting as well. some say that there are ok and some say otherwise. The only way to know, is when we get on them.<br />
a consensus was taken to stop for the night here in Siliguri and wake up early and roll by 5:30 am, without fail and make the 450 km ride to Behrampur as planned earlier.<br />
We had lunch at hotel Jamini which is in the not so heavily populated part of town with good parking. Got some rooms here for the night. I think we are the only guests here. Weird little place. Everything is very slow here.<br />
Sanjeev Shah our film maker friend and crew member for the last 4 weeks from Amritsar has to get back to Ahmedabad and is catching his flights out of Siliguri tomorrow. We will miss him. Hope he was finishing the journey with us. Tonight, we will have a send off dinner for him.<br />
Will keep posted if we do get rolling early. Otherwise we are in for an even longer rough ride tomorrow. Cheers!</p>
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Shillong-Coochbehar</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/shillong-coochbehar</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/shillong-coochbehar#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2005 12:40:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/shillong-coochbehar</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	


	
	
Monday, november 7
The plan was to be out by 6:30 am. Don&#8217;t ask how or why, but by the time we were off it was 8 am. The road out of Shillong was very good, though there were a lot of lorries on it. The diesel fumes were back in our lungs. Ahh&#8230; the smell [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4025.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4025.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4025-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="pine wood hotel" title="pine wood hotel" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4030.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4030.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4030-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="passing traffic" title="passing traffic" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4035.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4035.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4035-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="p stop" title="p stop" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4036.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4036.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4036-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="moonlight circus" title="moonlight circus" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0185.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0185.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0185-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="riding into the sunset" title="riding into the sunset" /></a><br />
Monday, november 7<br />
The plan was to be out by 6:30 am. Don&#8217;t ask how or why, but by the time we were off it was 8 am. The road out of Shillong was very good, though there were a lot of lorries on it. The diesel fumes were back in our lungs. Ahh&#8230; the smell of urbanization.<br />
The ride was real fun all the way down to Gawhati. Back in Gawhati, the traffic was heavy again and we ended up spending another 45  minutes there waiting for somebody or something. At this point, e knew it was going to be dark when we reached Coochbehar anyway, Just wanted to minimise riding that way.<br />
After about 230 km, we stopped off at the same dhaba on the way where we had chai a week before. Tanked up the bikes and off for another 230 km or so. The road was quite good mostly and then the last 100 km, as it got dark, the road was a mess. For sme reason, i did not remember it being as bad as that the first time around. I guess, i put it out of my mind because the road had gotten better towards the latter part of the ride going to Gawhati. To face this road with the sun setting in our faces and the dust being kicked up, was not a pleasant run. We reached Coochbehar by 8 pm and checked into the same hotel Ellora.<br />
Finally i had internet connection again. So i managed to upload the couple of blogs that i had written.<br />
Tomorrow we get back to Siliguri (in the chicken&#8217;s neck of Indian geography) and hope to carry on further South.</p>
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<p style="text-align:right;font-size:10px;">Technorati Tags: <a href="http://www.technorati.com/tag/India Bike Trip" rel="tag">India Bike Trip</a>, <a href="http://www.technorati.com/tag/Joe's photos" rel="tag">Joe&#8217;s photos</a></p>
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Haflong-Shillong</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/haflong-shillong</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/haflong-shillong#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2005 12:23:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/haflong-shillong</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	





Sunday, November 6
The road to Shillong promises to be better than the road we took there, so say the locals. We got started by 7 am and it was quite foggy as we were rolling down the mountains. Quite serene. Soon we pulled up to the side so we could get some pictures. Immediately a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0138.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0138.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0138-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="photo op" title="photo op" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3979.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3979.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3979-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="open road ahead" title="open road ahead" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3987.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3987.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3987-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="view from the road" title="view from the road" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3995.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3995.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3995-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="lake side, Umrang so" title="lake side, Umrang so" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4009.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4009.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_4009-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="must be the hair" title="must be the hair" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0173.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0173.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0173-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="improvise" title="improvise" /></a><br />
Sunday, November 6<br />
The road to Shillong promises to be better than the road we took there, so say the locals. We got started by 7 am and it was quite foggy as we were rolling down the mountains. Quite serene. Soon we pulled up to the side so we could get some pictures. Immediately a jeep full of police pulled up next to us and asked us where we coming from and the other same questions. The ASP (additional super-intendent of police) was actually very nice and had on a big smile. He was quite thrilled that we were doing this and was quite philosophical in his thinking about the local situation which he shared with us. He offered to arrange lunch for us at a place called Umrang so, about 100 km away which is where he was going and it was on our way. So soon we had an escort of 3 police jeeps showing us the way. The road was quite bad in some areas but mostly it was fantastic. The road ahead was single lane with bamboo groves all round hugging the road. The mountains were lush and overgrown with flora, which i shall not even attempt to name. Stopped off a couple more places and took more pictures.<br />
We got to Umrang so by 10 am and were shown to the police bungalow. Prime location! Beautiful clean big building overlooking a large blue lake. The cook there was somewhat surprised that we had wanted to eat right away and get going to Shillong. We have been skipping breakfast a lot and having a brun ch at around 11 am or so and follow up with some chai and biscuits later in the afternoon. Walked over to the lake and saw the local town folk preparing for a religious ceremony on the banks for the next day. Little kids were swimming and bathing in the lake. Looked so inviting. Got back to the bungalow and had our lunch. When the ASP had asked us to stay for lunch earlier in the morning and we had agreed, he immediately contacted the bungalow on his walkie talkie and asked them t prepare lunch. As always, we mentioned to him that we were non-vegetarians. So he calls back and says&#8221; Roger, Roger, Non-veg, Roger!&#8221; Very amusing.<br />
After lunch we headed towards Shillong which was another 145 km away. The road started out kind of bad for the next 50 km or so and then it was smooth riding. Beautiful tarmac on lovely mountain side. Our asses were thankful.<br />
Truly, the state of Assam is gorgeous! It has everything from forests, hill stations, abundant rivers, and views that are spectacular in any direction. The people were all very nice and beautiful. Never posed a threat to us directly. Roads were good, bad, straight, curved and topsy turvy. Great for motorcycle riding.<br />
We soon got in to Meghalaya state where we stopped off for chai at around 2:30 pm. We were only 50 km away from Shillong, the capital city. We had covered over 11,000 km so far on our journey.<br />
Got to town by 4:30 pm as the light was going down. Had made arrangements at the hotel Pinewood, which was fairly easy to find. Quite a quaint hotel. Shillong being at about 7000ft above sea level, was quite nippy as we were riding there. By evening it was around 16 C. Nothing compared to Leh, ladakh, but still cold.<br />
I wanted to sit down to write my blog, but didn&#8217;t get a chance. We were to get ready and go meet Dinesh&#8217;s friend Marcus&#8217;s in laws, who live there. Navroze, Dini and I went there and had a very good evening meeting everyone, particularly Neil who is a trained concert pianist. Fantastic wine and a delicious meal wrapped up our evening.<br />
The plan is to leave by 6:30 am tomorrow to Cooch Behar in West Bengal via Gawhati. It&#8217;s around 450 km and that&#8217;s a long ride. A few days earlier we had covered the Cooch Behar to Gawhati in 10 hours. He had to back track on that same road and also add another 110 km from Shillong to Gawhati.  Atleast a 12 hours ride to anticipate tomorrow.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Dimapur-Haflong</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/dimapur-haflong</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/dimapur-haflong#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2005 11:06:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/dimapur-haflong</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	
	
	

Saturday, November 5
Heading in to southern Assam to a place called Silchar. We had calculated the distance from Dimapur to be a little less than 300 km. We enquired about another route that would cut down about 50 km, but it would mean that we go off the main highway. We were quite spoilt from [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3941.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3941.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3941-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="locals, assam" title="locals, assam" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3937.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3937.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3937-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="chai break by  police check post" title="chai break by  police check post" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0096.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0096.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0096-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="half road" title="half road" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3957.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3957.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3957-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="detour" title="detour" /></a><br />
Saturday, November 5<br />
Heading in to southern Assam to a place called Silchar. We had calculated the distance from Dimapur to be a little less than 300 km. We enquired about another route that would cut down about 50 km, but it would mean that we go off the main highway. We were quite spoilt from the previous couple of days with decent roads. So, we just assumed the same for today. We barely got onto this half beaten single lane road when we were halted at the police check post and had to wait a few minutes. Some police officers got in to the first lorry and soon all the other lorries,buses, cars and us formed a convoy behind it. We come to realise that that was the national highway and that there was a violent incident on a bus 2 days prior on that road and so were advised to travel in a convoy for safety. We travelled like that quite slowly for about 45 km from where we had to take a diversion to a place called Diphu. There was no traffic which made the heavy forest a little more creepy feel to it. Otherwise, it was beatiful. The road though narrow and broken up in many places was still managable. We stopped for a quick few minutes to take pictures or film the ride, which was making certain members of the crew very nervous.<br />
We stopped by a local chai shop which was next to a police check post and talked to the official about the insurgency activity in that region. He said, there was some incident the day after yesterday or yesterday after yesterday and to travel cautiously. We carried on till we joined up with the main national highway 54 at around noon. Then we spent an hour finding a place to eat in a town there called, Lumding. Then, we asked some locals about the road to Silchar. They advised not to take that road we were on, instead to take the road back to a different town and go in a round about way. This was getting annoying. We stopped some truck drivers and asked them about the road and safety conditions. They seemed to be alright with it. But certain crew member was adamant about not going on that road as the local chap had said. So the local chap then asks a guy he knew who was coming along from the opposite direction, and he said it was fine. suddenly everyone was fine about carrying on. We found a restaurant just a few feet away and ordered some lunch. That took another 1 1/2 hours. We were losing quality daylight and we only had a couple more hours left of it.<br />
We were told the distance to Silchar from there was about 140 km or so. Soon we came across a sign giving the distance at 244 km. Boy, did that let the air out of us! already the road was getting even more bad and we would be losing light very soon and we were in the middle of nowhere forest. so we took a decision to instead make it to a town called Haflong, about 100 km before Silchar.<br />
We rode for another 2 hours after the sun went down and the road was really bad in many areas. Around 30 km to Haflong, I felt my bike responding a little awkward. Was pulling to one side and the steering was not quite right. I pulled over and asked Navroze to see if i had a flat. He didn&#8217;t seem to think so. also, we Dinesh&#8217; and my bike was out of gas and were now on reserve. So i figured it was just the fuel flow or the dust that has clogged tyhe air filter. About 5 km before town, it was obviously clear that my reat tire was punctured. We couldn&#8217;t stop in the middle of nowhere and try to take it apart. So slowly we came down the hills to the town and safely reached a hotel called Elite by 7 pm.<br />
By this hour the whole town was closing up and all the repair shops were shut. Luckily, the owner of the hotel contacted someone he knew and he re opened for us. Amazing joe, got my back to its running condition.<br />
Tomorrow, we are to make it back to Gawhati via Shillong in meghalaya state. We opted to stop off in Shillong for the next night halt and make up the extra distance to Gawhati the day after.<br />
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		<item>
		<title>Kohima, Nagaland</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kohima-nagaland</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kohima-nagaland#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2005 10:17:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/kohima-nagaland</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	


	

Friday, November 4
Today was going to be an easy day. a short ride of 75 km to Kohima and back to Dimapur by evening. Unlike the other ares of India, here we have to kind of backtrack as we ventured further towards the border towns.
The morning was very pleasant and I had an hour to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0123-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0123-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0123-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="uphill to Kohima" title="uphill to Kohima" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3920-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3920-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3920-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="pineapple vendors" title="pineapple vendors" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3921-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3921-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3921-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="kohima town from the war cemetery" title="kohima town from the war cemetery" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0146-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0146-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0146-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="lunch at little china" title="lunch at little china" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3936.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3936.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3936-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="early sunset, Nagaland" title="early sunset, Nagaland" /></a><br />
Friday, November 4<br />
Today was going to be an easy day. a short ride of 75 km to Kohima and back to Dimapur by evening. Unlike the other ares of India, here we have to kind of backtrack as we ventured further towards the border towns.<br />
The morning was very pleasant and I had an hour to sit down with Navroze and Sajeev to film an interview about my experience so far. Soon after we set off to the hills. It was already 10 am and one of the BRO officers escorted us to Kohima, incase we get hassled.<br />
The first 20 km was still in the plains and quite congested with traffic and people. As soon as we got to the hills, it was clear and the roads were lovely for the bikes to move around. Beautiful green valleys and the constant buzz of crickets was everywhere. Some places the sounds of the crickets actually sounded like cel phones ringing. Often, I would check my pocket to feel if my phone was vibrating. No calls, but that of nature.<br />
There were a few vendors along the road selling fresh pineapples and oranges. We stopped off to sample of the local fruit and were absolutely taken by the fruits. The locals were nice as well and spoke quite good english. curiously, there are a lot of missionary schools set up in that area for a very long time.<br />
The sky was a beautiful deep blue with a few clouds. soon, it was getting more cloudy and cool with that. The chance of rain is very sudden in those parts and could rain as much as 3-4 inches an hour or two. But, no rain poured dow on us.<br />
The ride to Kohima took about 2 hours and we were taken to the war cemetery. Perched in the best of town and well manicured, the war cemetery was the spot where in April of 1944, the allied forces fought and stopped the invasion of Japan in to India. Then we were taken to the church that the veterans of that war had helped build. I was getting a little antsy to go check out the local streets and people instead. By now, it was already 2pm and we stopped by a tiny restaurant called Little China where they served us some very spicy noodles. Nagaland chillis are infamously spicy. By 3:30, we started to roll as the sun sets as early a 4 pm and gets very dark by 5 pm.<br />
We got back to Dimapur and had some early dinner and called it a night at the BRO camp.<br />
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		<item>
		<title>Dibrugarh-Dimapur</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/dibrugarh-dimapur</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/dibrugarh-dimapur#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Nov 2005 17:56:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/dibrugarh-dimapur</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	



Thursday, November 3
We were told that the road from Dibrugarh to Dimapur was &#8220;too good&#8221; by the BRO. We left the hotel the same time as usual, around 7 am. Barely had we passed the city limits when Navroze&#8217;s bike had a mulfunction of all the electricals.
it was assumed that there was a short in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3903.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3903.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3903-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="Dibrugarh downtown" title="Dibrugarh downtown" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0058.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0058.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0058-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="riding past more tea estates" title="riding past more tea estates" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0078-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0078-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0078-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="road work ahead" title="road work ahead" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0095-1.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0095-1.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0095-1-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="reaching Dimapur" title="reaching Dimapur" /></a><br />
Thursday, November 3<br />
We were told that the road from Dibrugarh to Dimapur was &#8220;too good&#8221; by the BRO. We left the hotel the same time as usual, around 7 am. Barely had we passed the city limits when Navroze&#8217;s bike had a mulfunction of all the electricals.<br />
it was assumed that there was a short in the wiring due to the pressure cleaning the bikes went through earlier in the morning to get rid of all the dust. Anyway, joe did a quick fix and we got rolling again. But the problem continued a few more times and Navroze tried to ride for a while longer with no horn or indicator lights. Riding without the horn here is quite risky and I kept a close distance ahead of him. The road was very good as we were told and we decided to pull up by a chai shop and open the bike up to fix the nagging problem. Soon with the horn loud and chirpy, we rode out. The road was clean and smooth with lovely curves going through more tea estates (see photo).<br />
We were covering  the distance in good time and so kept pulling over to take a bunch of small breaks. Before dark, we reached Dimapur which is in Nagaland state bordering Assam state. The BRO over there received us outside with a banner welcome and escorted us to their camp in the middle of town. The nicest of them so far, very clean and spacious. The personnel were very hospitable and generous with their time. The man in charge, Brigadier Narasimhan had organised a cocktail party in our honor at 7 :30 pm. We had 2 hours to clean up and party.<br />
It was a delightful evening, and they showed us a small film explaining the history and accomplishments of the BRO.<br />
They are the unsung heroes who work in treacherous border areas of the country, making them accesible to the army and civilians, and do not receive the attention or credit that they deserve. Cheers!<br />
We planned to driving to a town called Kohima the next day to check out more of Nagaland. We were strongly advised not to venture any further than that town due to militant insurgent activity in those areas. That was fine with us.</p>
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	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Itanagar-Dibrugarh</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/itanagar-dibrugarh</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/itanagar-dibrugarh#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Nov 2005 15:23:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/itanagar-dibrugarh</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	


	

Wednesday, November 2
The sun was up very early. We had breakfast at the BRO camp, said our thank you and got on our way. We were given excellent directions and status on the road conditions.
The road was very good for the initial 55 km and then became a single lane uneven road ( see photo). [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3871.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3871.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3871-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="highway break" title="highway break" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3881.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3881.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3881-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="leaving the mountains behind us" title="leaving the mountains behind us" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3889.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3889.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3889-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="gone with the road" title="gone with the road" /></a></p>
	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0158.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0158.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_0158-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="on the ferry" title="on the ferry" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3902.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3902.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3902-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="other side of the river" title="other side of the river" /></a><br />
Wednesday, November 2<br />
The sun was up very early. We had breakfast at the BRO camp, said our thank you and got on our way. We were given excellent directions and status on the road conditions.<br />
The road was very good for the initial 55 km and then became a single lane uneven road ( see photo). After having been on the infamous Bihar roads, this was just fine.<br />
After about 150 km, we were received by Mr. Verma ( also with the BRO) who had driven 3 hours to meet us. He had prepared a very appetising lunch and then escorted us to a place called Simen Chapori which is on the banks of the river Brahmaputra. From the main road we had to go on the dirt road (see photo) for about 10 km to the awaiting ferry. We loaded up the jeeps and bikes on to it and sat back for the next 2 1/2 hours enjoying the boat ride. The river was only about 3 km wide but as the water was lower than usual and there were a lot of islands that needed to navigated around. Also, having to go against the current made the ride slow and enjoyable. The sun set early and the the stars were out by 5 pm. Looking up at the sky from the ferry felt like being in a planetarium. It&#8217;s been a very long time since I saw so many stars in the sky.<br />
By the time we got off the ferry, it was pitch black and we had to get back on the bikes for another 25 km to Dibrugarh. (see photo). The road out of the ferry was as you can see in the pic. for about 10 km and then the highway was fine.<br />
We made reservations in a hotel for the night. Just as we got in to town, Dinesh&#8217;s bike got a nail in his back tire and luckily we were already in town and joe fixed it as soon as we got to the hotel.<br />
This is the eastern most part of India on our journey. </p>
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</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Gawhati-Itanagar</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/gawhati-itanagar</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/gawhati-itanagar#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Nov 2005 13:44:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/gawhati-itanagar</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	





Tuesday, November 1
Today is the big Hindu festival of lights, Diwali. I couldn&#8217;t be more excited about being far far away from the cities and observe it from an area of India which I never imagined.
We had already tanked up the night before and we were all set to get going to Arunachal Pradesh. We [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3811.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3811.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3811-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="navigating on the brahmaputra bridge" title="navigating on the brahmaputra bridge" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3819.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3819.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3819-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="in bamboo land" title="in bamboo land" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3826.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3826.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3826-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="picking tea leaves" title="picking tea leaves" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3836.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3836.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3836-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="rock breakers" title="rock breakers" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3850.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3850.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3850-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="in Arunachal Pradesh" title="in Arunachal Pradesh" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3859.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3859.jpg','popup','width=800,height=600,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=yes,left=0,top=0');return false"><img src="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3859-tm.jpg" height="300" width="400" border="1" hspace="4" vspace="4" alt="happy Diwali" title="happy Diwali" /></a><br />
Tuesday, November 1<br />
Today is the big Hindu festival of lights, Diwali. I couldn&#8217;t be more excited about being far far away from the cities and observe it from an area of India which I never imagined.<br />
We had already tanked up the night before and we were all set to get going to Arunachal Pradesh. We were soon on the Brahmaputra river bridge (the same one we crossed the night before) and realised that although everyone said to go that way towards Tezpur (a town on the way to Itanagar), we should be going on a different route. After some navigation on the bridge (see photo), we got going towards the east on NH 37. The initial part was a nice wide 4 lane highway and soon ended in to a double lane road which was still very good. The road wounded through the hills which were quite lush with dense vegetation. There was a very strong army presence everywhere. An armed soldier was visible at every bend of the road.<br />
Once we got past the mountains, the road was on the plains again. We stopped at a dhaba for brunch at around 11am  and got going again. Maybe it was the easy road  or the food or the warm sun on us, but we felt sleepy soon. We pulled over by another bridge and the trees that lined the road were swaying gently like a fan. We took a break there, where I was ready to continue to sleep on longer. It was so peaceful. But we wanted to make it to our final stop before it was too dark and so we got going again.<br />
The road was very good as the Commander Pandey had mentioned. After 200 km or so, we tanked up again and had chai at the local shack and moved on to complete the 65 km. There were a lot of trucks and cycle wagons carrying bamboo and banana trees. These were in preparation for the Diwali festival. Soon, we came across a short cut to Itanagar which was going through some villages towards the mountains and would cut short the distance by about 30 km or so. The road was being worked on. It was very ridable however. There were men breaking down heaps of rocks by hand in to small rocks which are laid down for the roads (see photo). Each man works on a mound for 4 days and is paid Rs 80 per day (less than US$2). What a life!  What do we have to complain about?<br />
A we got to the foothills of mountains, we were at the border of Arunachal Pradesh, This state requires special permit for visitors. We had a written document from the BRO which gave us access. As soon as we went past the gate, we felt like we were entering an amazingly beautiful place that has been untarnished by any commercial exploitation. (see photo). The hills were so very dense with wild banana, palm, ferns  and teak. I was so taken by it, visually. Every turn was more beautiful and gratifying than the previous. Tiny villages by the road side with kids walking around freely on the road by the mountains. The women were very immaculately dressed in gorgeous traditional outfits and were all walking toeards the bigger village/towns, in celebration of the festival. Besides the Diwali holiday, they celebrate Kali puja in those areas.<br />
We reached Itanagar by 4 pm when it was already getting dark. The BRO camp was actually in the next town about<br />
15 km further from Itanagar, the capital of Arunachal Pradesh.<br />
So glad that we got to see and enjoy the beauty of the land and the people before it had gotten dark.<br />
We were cordially received by Commander Pandey at the camp and offered very comfortable accomdation. He and his staff were extremely helpful and hospitable to us. Getting correct information on the road conditions and routes were priceless and gave us a sense of mental comfort.<br />
A few of us went down in to the town to check out the local festivities. (see photo). I thought their use of the banana trees and split bamboo to set the oil lamps was quite remarkable. There was a lot of fireworks and the celebration was in full swing. The people were very friendly and made me feel very happy to spend Diwali wit them.</p>
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		<title>Coochbehar-Gawhati</title>
		<link>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/coochbehar-gawhati</link>
		<comments>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/coochbehar-gawhati#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Nov 2005 12:45:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bari</dc:creator>
		
	<category>Motorbike Diary</category>
		<guid>http://www.barikumar.com/india/motorbike-diary/coochbehar-gawhati</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[	



Monday, October 31
Happy Halloween!
I&#8217;m missing a couple of fun halloween parties back in Los Angeles.
Today we are heading to Assam state, famous for tea. I had always wanted to visit this area.
We got started by 7:30 am and the road was very decent. We tanked up in town and hit the national highway 37 to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[	<p><a href="http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photos/IMG_3798.jpg" onclick="window.open('http://www.barikumar.com/india/wp-content/photo